Darling River Run
DAY 1 – Saturday: Lithgow – Burren Junction
12 vehicles (11 Discos and 1 Rangie) departed Lithgow in perfect conditions at 8.30am heading for Burren Junction. Each vehicle was allocated a number and whenever the trip leader required a count-off the system worked well. We didn’t lose a vehicle for the whole trip!!! We travelled through green pastures into Gulgong for morning tea, through Dunedoo to Coonabarabran for lunch by the Castlereagh River and a very hot 32 degrees. Camping at Kallara Station, Tilpa onto Barcaldine for an ice cream after listening to various members of the convoy sharing their experiences on a previous very, very wet trip in the Pilliga Nature Reserve over an Easter. 
We arrived late afternoon at the Burren Junction camping ground which has a hot (38°C) artesian bore bath and the large cement pool surrounded by tamarind trees is filled with a constant source of hot water. The water has been flowing under natural pressure for over a century and was a very welcome relief to wash off the dirt from one’s body. The Blydes joined us here and they became the 13th vehicle in the convoy. No campfire but we all managed to eat, drink and be merry amongst the bindii.
DAY 2 – Sunday: Burren Junction –Lightning Ridge
After a morning soak in the artesian bore for some, we were packed up by 9am and ready for the trip to Lightning Ridge. Helen noticed a small split in one of her tires so a tire change was undertaken before the convoy got on the road. On the way into Walgett for morning tea, we passed the largest grain storage facility in the southern hemisphere. We arriv
ed in Lightning Ridge around midday, and after a stop at the Information Centre to find out about mine tours and things to do and see around town, we continued on to Lorne Station where we would be camping for the next two nights.
In the afternoon most did one or more of the four “car door” self drive tours around the mining areas. After dinner the evening’s entertainment was provided by the campground manager. Allan van Motman had a stage set up where he performed on the electric guitar with his specialty being The Shadows and other music from the 60’s and 70’s. One of the staff, Maria, also entertained us with her dancing. It was a very entertaining night which we all enjoyed. A number of people purchased Allan’s CDs which were later played over the radio for all to enjoy again.
DAY 3 – Monday: Lightning Ridge
This was a free day but no sleep-in and an early start to be at the Information Centre for a guided tour of the town. Two small coaches from O
utback Opal Tours arrived and drivers Eddie and Peter headed off in opposite directions showing us where it all began, the houses and conditions the miners worked under, a walk down a mine and a display opal cutting and polishing ready for sale. A terrific tour and a good way to see and hear about the Ridge, and as we finished that 3 hour tour our next was waiting.
We drove to the Chamber of the Black Hand mine which is 20 metres underground and a steady 24 °C with every wall of the mine carved using just a spoon or fork on the soft sandstone in shapes of birds, animals, Egyptian figures, famous faces from films and TV, and even a 3 dimensional carving of the Last Supper. We finished up with a welcome drink and a browse through the opal shop before heading up into the intense heat of the day. The afternoon saw members enjoying the town’s 42°C hot spa, or cooling off in the Council Olympic size pool, or hitting the shops for souvenirs, before we all met up at the Bowling Club for a drink and evening meal. On the Club TV screen we managed to catch a Today Tonight report being broadcast about ‘Ratters’ in ‘the Ridge’. Ratters are those who enter mine shafts, usually at night, to dig miner’s leases and steal the opal.
DAY 4 - Lightning Ridge to Tilpa
Leaving Lightning Ridge we detoured north about 20kms to where the road was closed by floodwaters. It was amazing to see the volume of water across the highway. A few of us gingerly walked a few metres into the water and were surprised how cold the water was, until we reached water with the sun on it, w
hich was as warm as bathwater. The current was quite strong and we could imagine being swept away if the level had been higher than ankle deep.
While there, a Rural Bush Fire Brigade truck arrived and the fellows told us that the floodwaters were still coming and if there was more rain it could isolate Lightning Ridge. There was also concern that the water would lift the bitumen and destroy the road.
Turning back toward Walgett for morning tea and then on to Brewarrina, we were warmly welcomed by Fran and Amy at the ‘Bre’ Information Centre where we watched a short video telling the Dreamtime story about the Fish Traps – the oldest known manmade structures on earth. Fran then told us about the effects of the floods on the local areas and how one family had already sold their stock and stored all their furniture on the roof of the homestead waiting for the water to recede. Listening to the stories made us realise that we really have no idea about living on the land and the havoc nature can cause. After lunch we had a short walk to the weir to 
see the fish traps which were covered by the swirling water that was the beginning of the Darling River.
Onto Bourke and much needed fuel. We were really keen to see the Darling River at Bourke, as on previous trips the level had been very low. The recent floods were evident but there was a long way to go before Bourke would be flooded.
Heading alongside the Darling we were greeted at Shindy’s Louth pub by a couple of corgies and the local chickens. The grass was very green and everything looked fresh and clean in contrast to the brown dust that usually pervades and very different to what we usually see on an outback trip. Suellen was freaked out by the frogs in the Ladies toilets and this prompted a group visit to check out the HUGE frogs. It was quite different, seeing green legs dangling down from under the lip of the toilet bowl – not something you see everyday. After a cold “Back-O-Bourke” Cola and a quick trip to the local cemetery we were on the road to Tilpa. It was almost sunset when we finally arrived at our camping spot at Tilpa’s Kallara Station. This was a great bush camp right on the bank of the river and far enough away from the homestead to make us feel really isolated. Tents were up in record time and we made dinner as the sun set, then sat around the fire into the night - this is what outback travel is all about.
DAY 5 – Wednesday: Tilpa to Menindee
The day dawned bright and cloudless and with a shortday of driving ahead we were making a leisurely departure from our lovely camp spot next to the river when a bright voice over the radio provided the first laugh of the day. To save embarrassment, I won’t identify the person who asked ‘Do we know the name of that river?’ Our fearless leader paused momentarily before replying gently ‘That would be the Darling, Tracey’.
A 10 minute drive into Tilpa and its very idiosyncratic pub where an old RRC cap was donated to the hat collection hanging across the room. For $2 to the RFDS, you can write your name on the walls or ceiling and they have obviously raised a lot of money over the years. After a short drink and chat, we were on our way to Wilcannia, passing through the Paroo/Darling NP. Amazingly flat as far as the eye can see and recent rains had rendered the ground green and lush, though the roads were dry with enough dust to keep our large convoy spread out over 10 to 15 kilometres.
Then things got exciting. At a call that Helen had stopped with a steering problem, the front of the convoy pulled over with care, as we’d seen a black snake at the side of the road. The next call was more ominous ‘the tyre has come right off the rim’, but the next call beats all ‘The whole wheel has come off – we’re looking for it now’….! Helen had noticed something odd and had started to pull over, thinking she had a flat. With great control, she stopped the car in the sand road edge, but was very shocked to realize that her front wheel had bounded past and over the bank for 50 or more metres. Four nuts had dropped off and disappeared, the fifth had sheered the bolt. But within an hour the convoy was on its way – Helen driving comfortably with 4 nuts on each wheel, and a borrowed ‘spare’ nut making up the set. Ian went through a bit of water and Peter, travelling behind at the edge of Ian’s envelope of dust came onto
the water suddenly, swerved right – and we were bogged! Lovely wet soft red soil. No chance to get ourselves out with a camper-trailer on the back, so John Collins tried a direct frontal snatch, but narrowly avoided becoming another boggee with some frantic and skilful driving. With several straps attached, John Deans managed to suck us out while staying on the hard surface himself. Arriving in Wilcannia at 1.30pm, Paul Brown, an RRC member and a local, was waiting to give us a tour of the town. There are many Heritage buildings in the town, several of which are undergoing extensive renovation with beautiful local sandstone. We saw the ‘Red Light Brewery’ which was the site of Resch’s first foray into beer, having previously only produced soft drinks. The tour was very rapid on the way to the caravan park next to the Darling for lunch where Paul had arranged for us to use the facilities and the showers. At 3pm, we left for Menindee Lakes and on the way out of town crossed a new bridge next to the old 1869 lifting bridge that allowed the paddle steamers and large boats to get through in the old days. Ian reported he had spoken to Christine at Lorne Station at ‘the Ridge’ and the flood waters had reached ‘the back paddock’, although this was 8km from the campsite. The water rise is 10 to 20cm per day. We travelled into the fruit fly exclusion zone and all fruit and soft vegetables were eaten or disposed of. We passed Menindee seedless table grape vineyards before stopping for a quick beer in the Menindee pub beer garden, where Burke and Wills had spent time. It was hot and the beer was cold.
Our camp was near Menindee Weir on the site where Burke and Wills had left for their ill-fated inland exploration, and after dinner sat around a campfire for an hour before bed. The main levy is 33km long and contains the many lakes. Driving along the top of the levy the lakes lapped the countless dead trees in the water. The image for the day for me was the flat land and the amazing colour contrast of bright green ground-cover against the bright red soil.
DAY 6 - Menindee to Mungo National Park
Our 6.30am wake up in the dark turned into a glorious morning with clear blue sky again and after packing up camp we made a quick stop at the Main Weir where a fairly decent amount of water was running into the Darling. There was abundant bird life at the weir with pelicans, cormorants and seagulls on the lookout for their breakfast. Hope they had more success than Steve did on his fishing sojourn the night before. As we drove away from the weir, the lakes full of water were quite a sight to see and photo opportunities were not wasted.
Through Menindee and the road to Pooncarie proved to be a bumpy ride on the dirt and then thick red dust as we worked our way through the road building works. Driving along the east side of the river we caught glimpses of the Darling on our right here and there and could see that it was in fact running quite low. Repair work was being carried out on the Pooncarie Community Hall adjacent to the morning tea spot in the park and near the Old Wharf site. The Mayor informed our leader that the town was being spruced up in readiness for a re- enactment of the Burke and Wills ill-fated expedition to the North West, 150 yrs ago. Pooncarie is an old river port and was used by the paddle steamers plying their trade up and down the Darling. The river was low here also although the previous week it had been a few meters higher! You could actually see the higher watermark. In the information booth at the site a notice dated 2007 warned that the river was dying due to drought and bad usage planning.
Opposite the wharf, a new cafe has b
een built (approx 2 years old) and it’s interesting to note that the owner advised one of our group that he is getting around 200 customers a day, is struggling to cope with the numbers and regrets not building a larger facility. He was actually expecting a coach trip in for lunch that day. Tourism industry looking up with the popularity of the Darling Run!
On to the tar as we headed for Wentworth and the famous confluence of Australia’s two great rivers where the Darling ends and flows on as the Murray. On entering the town we made a quick side trip to the 22 metre high Perry Sandhills, 400 acres of continually shifting sand dunes and formed by wind over thousands of years in the middle of the plains. Wentworth itself, the oldest town in the region, has retained a village atmosphere with classic buildings and the Old Wentworth Goal and Folk Museum. The supermarket and bakery (fresh cream cakes) in town did a roaring trade as we stocked up and bought lunch to eat in the park which houses the viewing platform for the meeting of the rivers. The chocolate brown Darling is quite evident as it joins into the blue water of the Murray River.
We farewelled Barry who had commitments in Sydney and shot off home, whilst the rest of us drove by Lock 10 weir before moving out towards Dareton passing the grape drying racks along the way, then back onto the dirt again as we turned north towards Mungo National Park. Helen had concerns about the car shuddering especially in light of her earlier wheel adventure so Ivars drove the car and declared that it was probably just a wheel balancing issue.
On arrival at the main camping area, all sites were set up in good time and early pre-dinner drinks & nibbles were arranged in the communal shelter. Many of us availed ourselves of the hot showers that were available at the nearby Ranger Station before settling down to dinner. The end of another day in paradise especially for the flies and the mozzies!!!
DAY 7- Friday: Mungo NP
After a lazy breakfast and an exodus to the showers, it was a free day to investigate the history and features of the NP. During the morning the Dart boys had a situation at home so after a quick tour of the NP they packed up and headed for Sydney. During the week the loop road was closed for maintenance and we were fortunate that it re-opened at lunch time and we had the opportunity to drive the 70km track around the dry lake bed and view close-up the lunettes of the Walls of China. At happy hour we all congregated at the Walls of China viewing area and nibbled and drank while the brilliant sunset cast changing colours over the white sand hills. We then drove back to our camp in the dark for dinner before meeting up again for a nightcap drink and more chatting in the camp shelter shed to finish a relaxing but informative day.
DAY 8 – Saturday: Mungo NP – Willandra NP
Leaving Mungo National Park at 8:30 am in beautiful sunshine, it was a relief to say goodbye to the flies for a while. Travelling along another dirt road we traversed beautiful flat country crossing many dried-up lake beds which, as far as the eye could see, were covered in green vegetation. Morning tea was by the side of the road near a few low shrubs and trees. We reached Willandra Station about 12:30pm and after a short chat to the ranger (who warned us to keep our eyes open for the carpet snake and her little ones) we paid our camp fees and proceeded to set up camp.
The afternoon was free time with exploring the old homestead and most opted to drive around the property making sure we were back in time for happy hour at 5pm. Happy hour, under large trees on the freshly watered grass in front of the homestead was most enjoyable. During happy hour a presentation was made to Ian and Suellen by their fellow travellers in appreciation of their time and effort put into organizing the trip.
Eventually we returned to our individual campsites to cook dinner. After dinner we again enjoyed a campfire circle (without the campfire because of the fire ban in NP’s) before retiring to our beds in preparation for an early start the next morning.
DAY 9 – Sunday: Willandra NP – Sydney
Our last day and the Blydes left early for their 1,000 kms journey to their home and the O’Reillys and Nicholsons elected to depart at a more leisurely time. Therefore only 9 vehicles departed for Sydney at 8am.
Heading for Hillston for fuel we continued to kill mosquitoes by the dozen which had accumulated in our vehicles overnight. Arriving at Hillston we said our goodbyes to John Collins and Helen who were heading in other directions, leaving 7 vehicles in the convoy.
Takeaway coffees and cake were consumed on the way to West Wyalong with a plague of locusts over the roads to contend with. We stopped at Grenfell for a quick lunch and a big bonus - NO FLIES sharing our lunch due to a stiff breeze. What a luxury. A flat tyre was discovered by Ivars and quickly changed. Onto Bathurst for a quick break, and some rain over the mountains washed away a portion of the dirt and bugs. The trip leader elected to travel the Bells Line of Road and surprise, surprise near Mt Tomah we had ICE on the side of the road. What a strange sight to be seen after all our hot weather. The storm must have been intense to shred the leaves from the trees. We all said our goodbyes, including one gentleman in a Toyota who had been camping near us since Mungo NP and listening to our chit chat for hundreds of kms. He couldn’t resist joining in our convoy’s conversation and had some interesting stories to tell. We arrived home just before 7pm.