Day 1 – Cairns
Everyone arrived in Cairns the day (or two) before, travelling from Sydney by various routes including train from Brisbane. Inland routes seemed to be the most popular.
The day was spent checking vehicles, filling the larder, generally getting organised and doing a bit of sight-seeing. All 15 of us (with a couple of ring-ins) converged for dinner at Barnacle Bills. A great meal coupled with a great opportunity to get to know our fellow expeditioners. Everyone was eager to get underway for the great trek to the very tip of Australia.

Day 2 – Cooktown via the Bloomfield track
With everyone enjoying the luxury of a cabin over night, an early start was easily achieved. Heading north up the coast we soon reached the Daintree River where we boarded the Solar Whisperer to silently cruise up the river for our first look at crocodiles, big and small. Also spotted several species of birds and were introduced to the rainforest and its environment, including numerous green tree snakes.
Lunch was at Cape Tribulation, where our leader, on the first day of the trip, demonstrated his inability to make decisions and read maps!!!
Then onto the Bloomfield track, the start of the dirt and corrugations. Good track with a few easy creek crossings – just easing us into the challenges of the Cape. A quick drink at the Lion’s Den Pub (not to be missed!) then on into Cooktown with another night in cabins. (Cooktown was named after Jimmy Cook, the expedition leader of the World Surfing Safari in 1770. He holed his boat on the reef and stopped in at Cooktown for repairs. Reference Dirk Flinthart’s “Coasting”). Dinner was at the Bowling Club for most (Bill and Jack went to Chop Suey Louie’s!) – We were to eat at the Top Pub but the manager had had enough and closed the door and left town a few days earlier. That’s the way of the Tip.

Day 3 – Elim Beach
Our journey from Cooktown to Elim Beach did not commence until 12 noon so we were able to savour the delights of Cooktown by day having already sampled it by night. Cooktown is a delightful spot, plenty of history. Capt. James Cook beached the Endeavour here for repairs after going aground on the reef. A visit to the top of grassy hill is recommended, it was from this vantage that Cook climbed to plot his passage through the reef after the repairs had been completed. There is a magnificent view of the mighty Endeavour River named after Cook’s ship, it was indeed a wonderful sight and no doubt Cook enjoyed the view after such a climb. Don’t leave Cooktown without a visit to the baker/
pie shop, yummy.
Bill outranked me so he was doing the first driving stretch, we nicknamed our two days of reporting as the 3 B’s – BENDS, BUMPS, AND BULLDUST., there was plenty of everything. Initially the road was bitumen but soon turned into a dirt track/ road, on either side there were the ever present termite mounds, 3 different shapes, Cathedral, Magnetic and Tree Huggers, not quite the correct name. Then we came to an
open plain on the left with paddocks of cattle and mango plantations. Mount Olive appeared on the left and reminded us of Table Mountain without the mist. We safely crossed Isabella Creek without incident to see more cattle, some feral, and also brumbies. There were lots of dry creek beds. Eventually we arrived at Hopevale, an aboriginal settlement with a cultural centre. We visited the centre paintings from local artists including R. Rosendale, an interesting name as that is the area I was born in UK. His paintings appeared to be bright colours on a black background.
We left there at 1320 disappointed to see only 4 people in the whole town and that included the curator of the centre. On the way to our destination Elim Beach we were travelling along a poor track, very dry and lots of the 3 B’s. Passed a lovely big black snake by the side of the
track.
On arrival at Elim Beach, we were met by a lovely guy, aboriginal and we mean a real aboriginal, who went by the name of Eddie Deemal,
(Firestick) who gave us a good welcome and showed us a good camp site and supplied us with wood for the fire. We set up camp, my first one in 50 years, much to the amusement of my fellow travellers, however Bill was very patient with me, even after I tripped over the guy ropes.
Acting on the advice of Eddie we drove along the beach, low water, and saw the most beautiful coloured sand hills, which we explored with great energy, supposedly the best in Australia. Just to prove I am not just a big city dweller, Bill and I spotted a beautiful Jabiru fishing in the shallows and brought it to the attention of Lyn Baily and OBL. Also lots of lovely egrets. Finished the day with a camp oven of chicken, 3 veg,
and a glass or two of white wine.

Day 4 – Lakefield NP
Before we left we were thrilled by the display of spears, woomeras etc. which were shown to us by Eddie and his brother, David, who also showed us how to extract and prepare the gum used to glue the shaft and head together. Eddie then proceeded to exhibit his skills with the woomera and spear, a sight I shall always remember, and his tales about the town people, and their loss of identity. Eddie was off in
September to the Alice for a meeting of the elders and other like minded people, more strength to your spear Eddie. Our journey was full of the 3 B’s, some of the bumps being quite deep and difficult, as for bulldust I’m sure you all know about that. Along the way we saw numerous birds including large black birds, brush turkeys, a possible Brolga (or is it Bill’s eyes), whistling ducks and black kites. We camped that night at Kalpower Crossing, good toilets and showers, where young Alex caught a nice fish which the family enjoyed for dinner. We settled for steaks provided by Paddington Farm Fresh Foods and cryopacked personally for us boys.

Day 5 – Mungkan Kandju NP
Today’s journey – Lakefield National Park (Kalpowar Crossing) via Musgrave Roadhouse & Coen to Mungkan Kandju National Park and the Old Archer crossing – Approx 345 km’s today It was a very interesting day with a good distance to cover. Passing White Lily Lagoon there were no lilies open today. There was great bird sightings today – Jabiru and Red Tail Black Cockatoos. The huge quantity of termite hills made the
scenery look like a cemetery. Passing through Breeza and its amazing 100 year old Mango trees which create a beautiful and shady archway across the road. The road contained many “bull dust” holes today. We have been introduced to the Kapok Tree which has a bright yellow flower – not many leaves – and a pod which when ready bursts open to release the kapok fluff which was used for pillow and mattress stuffing.
We had a few rocky river crossings through this area of vast plains which were very grassy, many termite mounds, much old fencing and very
flat. This is an old cattle area and we were all wondering how the early cattle families survived in the heat and dust. The view was constantly
changing – passing Bobby Lagoon, Lotus Bird Lodge, an airstrip with fuel containers sitting under a tree at the end of the dusty runway while cattle wander aimlessly across the airstrip. Stopping at Musgrave Roadhouse for morning tea and those with no phone reception rushed to the public phones. Moving on into Coen for a stop at the pub for supplies and a lunch picnic at the park at the end of town. We had a few radio problems today as the distance we were stretched out along the dusty roads created a bigger distance than previously. We had a middle man to relay any messages. Moving on into the Mungkan Kandju National Park where there were many wild horses. This area is very flat and there are quite a few beautiful lagoons. Passing the Langi Lagoon camping area and to the Old Archer Crossing then into the
National Park to find a camping spot. First site not big enough for our 7 vehicles so we moved another 6km passing Twin Lakes where feral cattle were numerous. We settled at 10 Mile Junction for the night arriving about 5pm. It was a great but long day. Plenty of frogs and Alex caught two fish in the river. Greg Byrne was adventurous enough to have a 3 second dip in the river while many (including the Croc?) watched. It was cooler down by the river at the end of the day.

Day 6 – Bramwell Junction
Today’s journey – Mungkan Kandju NP via Archer River Roadhouse to Bramwell Junction – approx 291kms. We had a slower start today as distance is not so far, travelling back out past the Twin Lagoons after a great night. Temperature a bit cooler after 29-30 degree day yesterday. Phil and Greg both had a refreshing dip before setting off today.
Back out through the NP onto the Peninsular. Development Road, we pulled into the Archer River Roadhouse for phone, fuel, the best steak sandwiches, and ice creams all round before setting off again. Lyn missed out so we decided to get her one at the Moreton Telegraph Station – alas, no ice creams, just a cool drink. We reviewed the wet season photos here and noticed that in 1907 the flood waters were 1 metre higher than the peak in 2006. The Wenlock River appeared to be some 40 metres below the Telegraph Station. It is very hard to imagine the sheer volume of water as most rivers and creeks we have crossed are very low. The Wenlock is so wide at the Telegraph Station you cannot comprehend that the waters would fill the river and break the sides by so far. On to Bramwell Junction to refuel and camp for the night. The Army was also camping here for the night so we were not sure what to expect. The junction is very well set up with showers and a washing machine etc. A refreshing beer was purchased at the kiosk. They had friendly poddy calves and a local dog wandering around the camp. We set up some clothes lines around the camp and many were thrilled to have some clean clothes. Around the camp fire we started building acronyms for the trip: Jack: the 3B’s, OBL – Our Beloved Leader, G1 – Jack’s call name for Greg Byrne (as we had two Gregs on the trip) Ros: DDD – Dips, Dust& Discos Pearsons: GMA was their radio call sign being short for Greg, Margie & Alex Greg B: M – short for My New Best Friend (Jack found Greg’s wallet which he had dropped earlier in the evening and did not know it was missing !!!) The camp fires at night are often the best time of day – full of stories, reflections on the day and forward planning.

Day 7 – Old Telegraph Track and Eliot Falls
Terrible Twists and Turns in Tunnels of Trees through the Telegraph Track The very small sandy track from the camp site at Bramwell Junction with a home made sign announcing the “Telegraph Track”, set the scene for the days’ adventures. In quick succession Palm Creek and Dulcie Creek confirmed what was in store, both crossings having steep drops and Punsand Bay Campground ruts, but relatively shallow water. The track itself had a bit of everything; deep ruts, sand, corrugations and plenty of ‘chicken runs’. North Alice Creek had a steep rocky approach to be negotiated before we reached the Dulhunty River where the phantom level sensor struck our fearless leader’s vehicle again, bogging it in soft sand. Thanks to Greg P it was quickly replaced and we were on our way again. Horrified by discarded beer cans and soft drink cartons a collection was made in a large garbage bag and dumped at the next waste point. Change of scenery to more lush vegetation and trees close to the track, almost forming a tunnel. Gunshot Creek was potentially the biggest challenge. Two approaches to the east were obviously chewed out by idiots. The western track was steep, but easily negotiated with care and the creek itself was not very deep. Brief stop at the grave of Bill Brown who worked on the OTL, then on to meet the Bypass and Development Road, from which point it was an easy, if rough run, to camp at Eliot Falls. A very welcome swim at Twin Falls and the Saucepan.

Day 8 – Punsand Bay
Another swim in the Saucepan before setting off up the Telegraph Track again, crossing Canal Creek which explained why water at Twin Falls was so milky; it had been churned up by 4WDs. Then on to Mistake Creek where we turned left leaving the OTL and heading for the Northern Bypass to Bamaga, but not before Greg and Ros had a healthy puncture. At the Jardine River each car was very quickly relieved of $88 for a five minute ferry ride but the Cape York Information Pack advertised was missing. Lunch at the Old Jardine River Crossing, with one lone OT pole standing on the southern side. Seeing another group of 4WDs on the far bank we were left wondering what the two New Zealanders thought when they reached the river in their Austin 7 in 1928. A reminder of historic times seeing the DC3 wartime crash site then on to top up provisions in Bamaga before heading to Punsand Bay where we camped on the beach. At last we could look forward to four nights in one spot and our intrepid fishermen Alex and Greg hit the beach running. No big fish from the sea, but we were given three salmon which we filleted and cooked over the camp fire.

Day 9 to 11– THE TIP CONQUERED
Gone Fishing! A welcomed 3 days of not packing up camp every morning. We made it to the most northerly point of the Australian mainland –looking out over Torres Strait and seeing turtles swimming. Being 15 individuals with many different photo configurations to take, The Range Rover Club took over The Cape for quite some time! It was a great thing having achieved. Getting there is not something you just wake up Sunday morning and decide to do, so it was great having achieved it. (I am sure Phil and Lyn will confirm that, and we all thank them dearly for their planning and organisation of the trip).
We were able to explore the area casually over the 3 days with no real agenda apart from relaxing and having a good time. This included visiting Somerset Bay, (in 1864 John Jardine was sent up from Rockhampton to set up a shipping depot following an increase in shipping through Torres Strait. Unfortunately it didn’t work as planned and Somerset’s administrative functions were transferred to Thursday Island in 1877), Seisa (the port providing the link to Thursday Island), WW11 relics, Thursday Island and Horn Island (lots more history) + seeing Possession Island where Captain Cook claimed possession of the entire eastern coast of Australia on the 22/8/1770.
The group split for 2 different fishing trips (Alex and Jane’s group). Jane’s group caught a very large Barracuda (1.5m but unfortunately not for eating) and a Spanish Mackerel, big enough to provide dinner for the whole group. Alex’s group caught 4 Queen fish all approx. 1m long (also not for eating unfortunately) + having the experience of seeing a crocodile in its natural habitat lazing on the beach near the mouth of the Jardine River. Despite having a good time and many “fishing stories”, we unanimously decided that sitting in a boat trawling, and watching and waiting for 4 or 5 fishing rods to “react” and then bringing in what attached itself to the lure, is no real way to fish. Nothing beats dropping a line in, holding the rod/reel and actually feeling the fish take the bait yourself. Punsand Bay Camping Resort - a great spot to camp and clean-up ready for the next adventure. Situated right next to the beach - good facilities, food and bar available and located close to all the area has to offer Also a good place for Alex to bury himself in the sand.

Day 12 – Vrilya Point
With a slight degree of sadness we departed Punsand Bay, our home for the last four nights. The track back to the main road was good, only one small creek crossing, but once on the Bamaga Road there were serious corrugations and the inevitable “DIP” signs. After a quick stop in Bamaga for last minute provisions and fuel, we were on our way via Injinoo to Vrylia, on the west coast, via initially a red dusty road, later opening up to a good wide road leading us to the Jardine River for our return ferry crossing. After morning tea on the south side of the river, lovely park, palm trees and large eucalypts, we were on the road again, turning off to the right to Vrylia Point. Our leader stopped to investigate the road ahead, and on alighting, we all studied the log bridge- the logs running in the same direction as the road. Under Phil’s and Bill’s careful guidance, all crossed successfully, with wheels carefully placed on the most appropriate logs. Ros was the only female driver to tackle the bridge! Travelling on a very rough track, and surrounded by a forest of grass trees, we arrived at Vrylia Point in time for lunch. While Bill, Jack, Greg and Ros went off southward, Phil, Lyn, Brian and Deidre went north along the beach looking for a better camp site, only to return to make the best of our original stop, and to find room for seven tents, some on the sloping grass verge and some on the sand among the rocks. It turned out to be a quite delightful stay, very peaceful and quiet, the sound of the waves lapping the beach ever so gently

After lunch we drove a few kms along the beach to investigate the wreckage of a “light ship”, (formerly used instead of a light house), a usted old hulk. It had been washed ashore during a cyclone. Firewood was collected on the return to camp and fifteen people enjoyed a meal of Spanish Mackerel, caught by Neil at Punsand, and expertly cooked by Jane and Bill. The fish was seasoned with lemon grass, ginger and garlic. Quitedelicious. There was even sufficient for seconds.

Day 13 – Fruit Bat Falls and Bramwell Station
On leaving Vrylia, Phil chose the most challenging exit out of camp. The log bridge was successfully negotiated for a second time, without incident, followed by the inevitable morning tea break, then on our way over serious corrugations to the Bamaga Road, wide and good surface, much work in progress, arriving at Fruit Bat Falls, a spot not to be missed, in time for a swim and lunch. It was quite something to sit beneath the falls and have a free back massage. Back on Bamaga Road, passing lots of very tall termite mounds, we arrived at Bramwell Road House for fuel and ice creams, then on to Bramwell Station, the most northerly working cattle station in the country, and our camp site for the night. Lewie, the camp manager, promised us rump steak and vegetables @ $20.00 for dinner, and when we fronted up to order “doneness” of steak, we were informed the menu was now Shepherds’ Pie, no choice, no excuse., except there was not enough steak for us all. We all complied with good grace. Lewie has managed the camp site, a great spot with clean toilets and hot showers, for 18 years on his own for 4-5 months of the year. The property has 850 head of cattle, managed by Wendy, the owner, and her partner, and they also run a trucking business. Lewie complimented our group on their tidiness and efficient organization

Day 14 – Frenchman Track and Chilli Beach
The day started early! The generator fired up at 5.30am. We were to depart Bramwell Station at 8.30 am. The temperature was 18 degrees, cooler than previous mornings. We departed right on time and travelled until we turned off the main road into Batavia Downs which was signposted as a restricted area with entry requiring permission. We turned onto what is known as “Frenchmans Track”. The track was quite slow with a combination of ruts, corrugations, deep holes and thick sand, the road conditions continually changed as we proceeded making this track a good drive. First river crossing was the Wenlock River crossing. It had a steep descent with the river being shallow and rocky. When GP went to proceed to this river crossing his D3 made an unusual sound when moving off and he found that the hand brake had not disengaged. He shut the engine down and restarted and the handbrake disengaged.The next river crossing was shallow and easy. This was followed by a short rocky hill climb which was more challenging requiring each vehicle to ascend and complete individually before following vehicles could attempt.
Then onto another river crossing which had a firm base and shallow water. Track then led towards a mountain range known asthe Iron Ranges and we found ourselves overlooking a valley which we started to descend leading down to the Pascoe River crossing. It was a steep rocky descent. Having conquered the river we stopped for lunch. We found ourselves at the end of the Frenchmans Track in a high clearing with distant views of range. There was little vegetation on this plateau but unusual rocky eroded gullies. We continued slowy dropping altitude into the valley floor now with the mountain range around us. Quick stop at Mt Tozier lookout. We headed towards Chilli Beach which led us through very lush rainforest vegetation with several shallow ford crossings. We arrived at Chilli Beach at approximately 3.10 pm where it was blowing a gale! The camping spots were large and partially protected from the weather. Toilets were the composting type and are in good repair. Camping fees were $5 per person. No fire tonight as the wind did not stop all night.

Day 15 – Hann River
Woke to find the wind still blowing! We all packed fast and departed at 8.24 am happy to be out of the wind. The next part of the trip was on Portland Roads Road whereextensive roadworks were being undertaken. We were required to switch to Channel 40 so the workmen could instruct us through the worksite. Morning Tea break at 10.30 am was on the bank of another part of the Wenlock River which was a huge dry riverbed with little waterflow. We then made our way to the ruins of the Batavia Goldfields. There had been a recent fire through the area which exposed many relics of past gold mining activity. We then made our way across the Wenlock River again. Arrived 12.30 pm at Archer River Road where they served agood “Archer Burger”. We stayed for lunch and at 1.22 pm we were on the road again heading for Hann River. Approximately 10 kilometres from Coen the Pardey’s D3 reported they would be stopping as their snorkel had come loose. Due to continuous corrugations the snorkel mount had vibrated loose causing it to flap in the breeze. Convoy stopped for 5 minutes to re-attach and quickly repair.
We then passed through the Quarantine station where the ranger checked our fridges for any potentially infected fruit or vegetables. We discarded some apples and a frozen capsicum Late afternoon was fast approaching and it was decided that we would push for Hann River passing Musgrave Station which was a maybe campsite if needed. We arrived at Hann River Roadhouse at 5pm. The campsite was a nice shady site with a light lawn. The bathroom facilities here were inadequate with only 1 loo and shower for each gender but the water pressure was very good. There was a restaurant if required which served a good variety of meals.

Day 16 – Jowalbinna
First stop Laura for fuel and a cappuccino. Great interest in the Austin 7 parked out the front of the Service Station and owned by the proprietor. For one member of the group this was by far the highlight of the trip! (A couple of Kiwi’s once drove a new 7 to the Tip!!!) Arrived at Jowalbinna for lunch and to set up camp. A great little camp site with good facilities. Matt Trezise arranged to show us the Giant Wallaroo Aboriginal Art gallery.A short interesting drive and then a great walk into a sandstone gorge, across a clean, spring fed stream and up to the caves and galleries. Matt was a wealth of information, his father having spent his life researching art in the area. These galleries will not disappoint. Some of the art is 10’s of thousands of years old. Of interest was the number of paintings of dingos and giant wallaroos. This art would be more recent, about 4,000 years old!Dinner around the camp fire – again.

Day 17 – Maytown and the Palmer River Gold Fields
Today the less fortunate departed for Cairns leaving 4 vehicles to tackle the Jowalbinna to Maytown track. What a track!! It follows the old coach road that linked Laura to the gold fields and the town of Maytown. It has not been maintained since! 5 hours of solid driving to cover 50km – narrow, windy track with lots of steps up the escarpment and in and out of the valleys, together with wash outs, rocky creeks (mostly dry), sandy patches and the obligatory corrugations. Highly recommended if you like a challenging drive. Bruce did a tyre. Checked out some gold fields including the Enterprise mine with the remains of a 10 stand battery and other paraphanalia. Not a lot left of Maytown, the town set up to service the mining district, just some stone kerb and guttering and a few stumps that were building foundations. Signs indicated what the blocks had been used for. The cemetery was interesting. Camp site was by the Palmer river – but not that great, some claim that it was the worst camp site of the trip, as was the track to it!! But to others the track was great and camp site not bad!

Day 18 – That’s it!!!
Early start – everyone must have been keen to get to civilisation. Jack had been camping 15 nights straight, not bad for someone who had never camped before! The road out wound through some hilly and scenic countryside. The road started as a track and slowly improved with the last 20km recently realigned and graded. At the bitumen we said our last farewells and went our own ways. A great trip was had by all.