Hay River
The trip was arranged to cross the Simpson desert from South to North. The full convoy was to meet at Mungerannie, travel to Poeppel Corner via the Warburton track and the K1 line, then head north to Beachcomber oil well, cross the dune country to the southern end of the Hay river and follow the river north to Jervois on the Plenty Highway. The northern part of the route passes through the Atnetye Aboriginal Land Trust area and permits are required. Lindsay Bookie, the Aboriginal custodian of this land has established a camp at Baton Hill and is encouraging visitors to the area.
Adrienne Watson had previously befriended Ken Williamson, an amiable bushman who had been involved with Lindsay in developing the track along the Hay river. Although Ken had completed the trip a couple of weeks earlier he was keen to accompany us as our Special Guest! We considered his presence would more than compensate for the vehicle he was driving!
The track also passes two of Madigan’s camps. At camp 16 our clubs founders had installed a plaque commemorating their crossing of the Madigan line in 1981. This plaque had subsequently been defaced and the club decided to erect another plaque to honour these founding members and their epic 1981 adventure. This new plaque was entrusted to the trip leade
r at a fund raising dinner for the RFDS. It set off the next day to join its original.
The desert country had some good rain early in the year and again just prior to our trip. Warburton crossing was closed so plan B was invoked before the trip was started!! Instead of travelling from Mungerannie to Poeppel corner via the Warburton crossing, it was agreed that we would go up the Birdsville track to Birdsville and then to Poeppel’s via the QAA line (and Big Red)
Accompanied by Gavan, Lyn and I set off for Nyngan then Broken Hill with a quick trip to Silverton (and a spin in the Mad Max interceptor) and sunset with the sculptures in the living desert reserve.
Then to Wilpena Pound to be met by a gale and pouring rain. Hiking the Pound was out and so was Sky Trek. So a muddy trek through Brachina and Bunyeroo gorges with a Flinder’s road kill lunch at the Prairie Hotel, Parachilna. Gavan got the last of the curry Roo pies – delicious. My emu burger and Lyn’s roo burger were also pretty good. Back at camp we jogged into the pound for a quick look at sunset. Then back to the wind and rain, lit a fire but it was tooooooo cold so we all retreated to the tents.
At Wilpena we caught up with two more of the convoy – the Jorgensens and McDonalds, who had left Sydney earlier so as to see a bit more of the Flinders. So with a quorum I now delegate the trip reporting to my eminently capable fellow adventurers.
Days 1 and 2
Wilpena Pound to Arkaroola
After a very windy night, the morning brought calm weather to break camp. The evening’s wind had dried out the tents, but the ground was still very wet. Leaving Wilpena Pound, the skies were clear and gave us a great view of the shape of the Pound. We headed up the east side of the Flinders and Gammon Ranges and arrived at Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary just before lunch, checked into our accommodation (the tents were given a rest for a couple of nights), and booked seats on the famous ridgetop tour. John and Diane joined Phil, Lyn and myself as we headed off in the back of Arkaroola’s custom Toyota Troopcarrier (cough!). The tour was very scenic and our tour guide, Wayne, provided a very interesting and informative commentary as we bumped our way over some spectacular countryside. After a few stops, we arrived at Sillers Lookout, had afternoon tea and tried to capture the enormous panorama on our cameras. Sillers Lookout is quite well known from many 4WD commercials as the lookout itself is on the precipice of a cliff and affords great views of the surrounding ranges and Lake Frome as well as the Beverly Uranium Mine off to the east.
We spent a little more time than scheduled at Sillers Lookout and by the time we headed back to Arkaroola it was starting to get dark and a little cold. The approaching darkness meant the animals were out and we saw a decent number of Euros and Yellow-footed Rock Wallabies. That night we all met up at the resort’s restaurant and had a nice dinner. After dinner Phil and Lyn went on the Astronomy Tour at Arkaroola’s observatory which they said was good but was hampered by the large number of people crammed into the small observatory space.
Arkaroola
A sunny but chilly morning greeted us as we all met at reception to be taken down to the beginning of the Acacia Ridge walk - our morning activity. The walk was a 5.8km traverse of some hilly country up to the Acacia Ridge summit, then back to Arkaroola Village. The ridge summit gave us a great view of the surrounding ranges, including the Freeling Heights, the Armchair, Mt Jacob and Mt Oliphant. On the last section of the walk we came across a section of fence that had a number of large rocks tied to it in an irregular pattern. We were struggling to find a reason for the fence rocks until Phil came up with the theory that it was a scientific experiment to test erosion levels of rocks at ground level and rocks at elevation. Once he started to po
int out the ‘control rocks’ we realised he knew what he was talking about we walked away satisfied Phil had provided a solution.
After the walk, Phil, Lyn, Malcolm, Dorothy and myself headed off to drive the Mt Jacob backtrack. Lunch was at Stubbs Waterhole which was a spectacular location of steep cliffs that dropped into a permanent waterhole, surrounded by gum trees and spinifex country. This set the standard by which all other lunch stops would be measured for the rest of the trip. The afternoon was spent traversing the rest of the Mt Jacob backtrack with a few more stops to explore some gorges and take some photos of the interesting geology. This included ‘handbrake hill’ which was so-called after John’s electric parkbrake wouldn’t disengage at the same spot the day before.
Another group dinner in the village restaurant occurred that evening and then I decided to do the astronomy tour that Phil and Lyn had done the night before. There were only three people on the tour this night which meant there was plenty of telescope time, which was good, but I got the trainee tour guide, which wasn’t so good.
Overall I was very impressed with the scenery and geology of the Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary, but the resort/village is showing its age and could do with a serious upgrade.
Days 3 and 4
Arkaroola to Mungerannie
The group, Phil, Lyn, Di, John, Gavan and Malcolm left Arkaroola, in the Northern Flinders Ranges, on a beautiful crisp morning, heading for Leigh Creek to stock up well before venturing into the Simpson Desert. Here we also met up with Adrienne and Peter, who were about to do the Leigh Creek mine tour, commenting later that they highly recommend it.
On route to Mungerannie we stopped at the ochre pits at Lyndhurst, which were interesting, as were the Farina ruins. We also saw the remains of a boat, which was used to ferry people and stock during the 1930’s over the flooded plains near Coopers Creek. But the highlight was the humorous encounter we had with a wild camel, frothing at the mouth, attacking each car!
Arriving at Mungerannie on dusk, we met the “character” that ran both the pub and camp ground and happily settled in for the night.
Mungerannie to Birdsville
Another beautiful crisp morning, we awoke to sighting brolgas on the water nearby.
After a quick breakfast and pack up we ventured back onto the Birdsville track, which showed signs of recent rain but otherwise was in good condition.
We arrived at Birdsville for a late lunch, set up camp and then spent some time touring the Birdsville Working Museum. This is run by a character who has a real passion for anything old – and they all work!! Many items such as washing machines, etc, were dated back to the 1920’s. One of his main interests was restoring Cobb and Co coaches, which he had examples of in his museum. A ‘must’ to visit but don’t wait too long as he is nearing retirement.
Another two, Wayne and Chris, joined our group and we all had an enjoyable meal at the Birdsville Pub, before retiring for the night.
We also met up with our special guest, Ken Williamson, who joined us for dinner.
Days 5 and 6
Birdsville to Poeppel Corner
Greeted by another clear sky and nippy (2 degree) start to the day, and just over the border
from South Australia we had to depart according to Queensland time. Being so far west the sun didn’t rise until close on 7:30 but all managed the 8:30 getaway, leaving the Diamantina River and its prolific birdlife behind. We travelled 36km before stopping near Big Red to deflate our tyres to about 60 percent of normal in preparation for the sand that lay ahead. Wayne realised that he had a small water leak, but still pressed on.
The notorious Big Red sand dune turned out to be not much different to a walk in the park. Some of us went up and down again just to prove the point. When Peter and Adrienne stopped to rectify a leaking jerry can we all took morning tea while they sorted it out. At 55km we met water across the track and had to take a 6km detour. Our tag-along-friend Ken explained this water was part of the Eyre Creek System. We were kept alert watching for several trail bikes that criss-crossed the tracked around us as we headed north. We crossed into Northern Territory at around the 150km mark where an unidentified Range Rover Club sign was found. There was no indication of which state club it came from.
Upon reaching a dry salt lake we followed its edge around close to Poeppel Corner and our night camp. We had crossed many hundreds of dunes today (Wayne reckons 1,100 but who was counting?) and there was a mix of pleasant and unpleasant surprises when the day’s fuel consumption was calculated.
Poeppel Corner to Clay Pan
An obligatory short photo-stop was made at the beacon indicating the intersection of Queensland, South Australia and Northern Territory before we headed off to more sand dunes. It was interesting to note that the remains of the original marker that had been erected all those years ago by Poeppel had subsequently been retrieved by Reg Sprigg of Arkaroola fame and is now stored in an Adelaide museum. We took morning tea at the site of the Poeppel Corner Oil Well No. 1 that was drilled in 1984, and later we passed the Beachcomber No. 1 Oil Well. Both of these had proved to be uneconomic.
During today there was much debate about the “upside down” trees we saw from time-to-time. Our friend Ken maintained that they grow that way and some agreed. For my money they simply blow over and the moving sand buries the tips of the branches like roots! At the top of the last sand dune before heading north Malcolm paused and wasn’t able to proceed without help. John and Phil came to the rescue and it was John’s “MaxTrax” that got him going again.
This north-bound direction saw us driving between the dunes with only an occasional crossing so progress was much faster and driving easier. Just a kilometre or so before our camp we encountered a small group of six camels and wondered if they would bother us during the night but they must have given us a wide berth.
The camp site was in the dunes, about 15km before the Clay Pan.
Days 7 and 8
Clay Pan to beyond Camp 15
Struck camp at 8.30am. Having now travelled 311km north of Poppel corner, we arrived where the Hay River finishes – a large clay pan. As we progressed north, lush new vegetation interrupted by increasing numbers of small gum trees surrounded us. A photographers delight – green clumps, yellow and purple bushes now contrast with the shifting rich ochre sand dunes, and aren’t they fun to cross!
Reached Madigan’s camp 16 at lunch time but priorities first – install the plaque. A suitable vaca
nt site at the same height but on a picket adjacent to the original plaque was selected. With everyone having a go (or at least giving instructions) the new plaque was fixed to the star picket using the correct outback method – fencing wire! With improvisation an unveiling ceremony was held with due pomp and ceremony while the paparazzi clicked away.
We passed through Camp 15 (Madigan’s Camp), an aboriginal quarry (where stones are sourced for use by aborigines for making implements) and “Middens” (a graveyard of bones – animals or humans?) before setting up camp in the middle of the North Simpson Desert! Another perfect sunset and campfire awaits.
The camp site was about 23km north of Madigan’s Camp 15
Beyond Camp 15 to Lake Caroline
Just a beautiful sunrise! Following our intrepid trip leader, Phil, we ventured further north, the vegetation constantly changing. You could now see where the Hay River runs when in flood. In this channel style landscape, camels and dingoes can be sighted. Crossing this dry Hay River in parts is interesting and challenging. Just ask Gavin or Malcolm who just had to go up and down the river several times looking for that elusive camp site. We visited Lake Caroline – a giant clay pan covered in black material – an eerie place and what would make a great film location for (say) Mad Max 4? After much carefully considered deliberation we set up camp on the Hay River. A wonderful meal, camp fire and very tasty pikelets prepared by Adrienne completed a perfect day.
The camp site was about 5km up the river from the Lake Caroline turnoff. It was on the western bank and the best access was by driving along the river bed!
Days 9 and 10
Lake Caroline to Baton Hill
Clear sky, cold night and very cold morning with frost on items left out overnight. This morning we became explorers. Two cars remained in camp; Malcolm for photography and Wayne & Chris to conserve fuel. The rest of us headed off following Gavin driving down the Hay River, where the sand was very soft, trying to drag us down into its clutches, but such a beautiful drive as well a being a lot of fun. The escape route out of the river required concentration and some grunt from the cars.
With Ken now in the lead our mission was to find the track Ken had made late last year to lead to Mt Knuckey. This track will become the start (or end) of the Never Never Track. Our expedition required covering the front grill in shade-cloth to stop grass seed heads smothering the radiators. We had travelled a couple of kilometres before spotting the tracks (even though we were actually on them all the time). Why did we ever doubt the technology of the GPS!! We were lucky enough to spot a bush turkey, otherwise known as the Western Plain Bustard. It was not impressed with us or our vehicles and very soon showed his superior mode of travel by flying off.
Mission accomplished, we were soon back on the Hay River track, now minus the shade cloth screens, and on our way to liaise with the others.
For a bit of fun on the long drive segment we had ‘Quiz time with Malcolm’. Today’s quiz was based on collective nouns. Much interest in the collective terms for crows (murder of..), eagles (convocation of…). The imagination went to town with collective noun for nudists – a hangout of nudists.
On reaching the Tropic of Capricorn (signposted) we turned towards the river to look for the plaque of Andrew Harper who, in 1990, walked across Australia following the Topic of Capricorn. Using GPS reading and with John remembering where he had found it last year it was finally located. Such a feat we commented on how and why one would do it.
Lots of vegetation still, trees and grasses but the ground was dry and very dusty. As we approached Baton Hill Camp Mt Winneke was clearly visible and we were given information of the significance of Mt Knuckey to the area and the culture of the local people. Lindsay Bookie, our host at Baton Hill, was there to greet us and show us to our camping areas. Hot showers, flushing toilets, bush kitchens with oven, hotplates and forever boiling water for coffee, tea or washing up.
It was a glorious clear night sky full of stars.
Baton Hill
This must have been the coldest night since Birdsville. Said our farewells to Diane & John as they were off to Alice Springs. An almost leisurely start to the day, no packing tents etc.
Today is bush tucker day. We are off on a tour looking for bush tucker. Lindsay Bookie together with his family arrived and gave us some information about his land. The area had had quite a bit of rain which showed in the proliferation of plants. The water for the camp came from a bore and was pumped up to the campsite. On being asked how big his land was, he replied ‘Too big!’
Our education was to be expanded: On each stop the family members , mainly the grandchildren, would search the areas for tucker. Our first stop we tried to find oranges on the orange trees but there were none. It was explained 
to us the oranges are small and have lots of seeds. We did find bush onions, these are tiny, tiny, minute onions look-alikes. We had a taste of these raw. It would take masses to make a difference in our cooking. We discovered the large melons we had seen lying all over the place were not paddy melons as we had thought but were known as ‘pie melons’, good to eat and make melon jam. Cattle and camels like them as well. We found they had a texture and taste similar to cucumber. Yams were dug up for us to sample and at dinner time we sampled some of the yams cooked. Bush bananas grown on vines had white flesh and the seeds tasted like green peas. Later on we tried the bush bananas cooked. Corkwood trees, the small oval shaped seeds are used for making jewellery. Coolibah trees, the seeds used to make flour. Several grass-like plants the seeds of which are also made to produce flour. Nuts and flowers from the mallee trees. Gidgee trees (wattle look-alike) has bean you can eat and the timber is used to make boomerangs.
Morning tea stop at a rocky lookout overlooking a beautiful lush green valley. Lindsay said was called ‘Land Rover Valley’ much to our pleasure! We stopped to look at a white ochre site. It was explained to us that the ochre is moulded into a ball and heated in fire to harden it so it could be carried and they would shave off parts when needed. There were many changes in the terrain; from sand to rock, washouts, ruts and stones. The same black rock which we found at Lake Caroline was also in this area. One tall hill was topped with a rock structure which resembled an elephant.
During the day Gavan’s car developed a small fuel leak. A quick call to Greg Pearson via the Sat phone, and general instructions including remove all back of car fittings to fix. ‘Not a problem!!’, were the words we heard uttered.
On the drive towards Goyder’s Pillar, our sunset destination, suddenly front cars stopped, doors flung open and Lindsay and his grandsons were out and over the fence in chase of a snake. The young boys were in bare feet. After a several minutes hunt they gave up. The snake had a lucky escape. It was a few minutes of excitement for us onlookers, especially those of us safely in the cars.
Goyder’s Pillar looked spectacular in the reflected light from the setting sun. It was a long day but such a lot of new experiences.
Back at camp that evening Gavan, with assistance from Phil and Malcolm, completed repairs to his fuel leak around our normal bedtime and then had to replace all his back fittings. However, it was a job well done.
Epilogue
Another 8:30 start and the easy 80km drive from Baton Hill to Jervois to fill those empty fuel tanks - $1.71 for diesel, cash only! Most of us could not resist the temptation of an icecream cone (vanilla or vanilla). Then Gavan and Malcolm headed off to get as far as possible in the day. But the rest of us managed to maintain the pace, the Plenty Highway being in top condition. In the end we all stopped at the Desert Sands Motel in Boulia with dinner together at the pub. Great service, had to go kill the bull for the steaks!
At Boulia the group split up to go their own ways. The Jorgensens had already left us, heading west on the Plenty Highway to the Alice for another month or so of touring. Gavan and Malcolm hightailed it back to Sydney to satisfy work commitments. Wayne and Chris decided to head down the Birdsville track then home.
Accompanied by Peter and Adrienne, we set off for a day and two nights in Diamantina National Park. The recent rains meant the water holes were full and the grass green. Not very dusty at all! Well worth the visit. Then to Lark Quarry where the dinosaur stampede has left footprints in the rock of time, very inte
resting.
Peter and Adrienne stopped in Winton and returned to Sydney at their leisure. We went on to Longreach, then Blackall, Cunnamulla, Wellington and home.
We travelled just under 7,000km with an average fuel consumption of 13.6l/100km (Disco 3 TDV6) – the cost of laden car and roof racks travelling at110kmph on bitumen and over sand dunes! From Birdsville to Jervois we averaged 17.4l/100km for a trip length of 771km. On this segment all the diesels consumed about 130l while the two petrol vehicles used about 200l. Fuel consumption over the first two days (Birdsville to Clay Pan, about 300km) was considerably higher at 19 to 20l/100km as we tackled the dunes. After the Clay Pan the track is relatively level and firmer, lowering fuel usage.
The Hay river track covers some great scenery. We were lucky that the recent rains had made the plants and grasses grow. The greenery plus the red sand and blue sky was great for the photographers – of which we had many. Lots of wild flowers. Lots of birds - budgerigars, finches, galahs, corellas, falcons, and a bustard. Camels and dingoes. The occasional lizard.
Generally we were away about 8:30 in the mornings and at the camp site by 4:00, without pushing too hard during the day. Birdsville to Poeppel was a bit of a push but probably worth it. The dune country between Beachcomber and Clay Pan was the best, but it was all good! We could have spent a bit more time in the dunes camping a bit earlier on night 6. Doing a bit more of the dunes on day 7 camping just after the middens then camping just before the Lake Caroline turnoff on day 8 and doing Lake Caroline and the trip into Baton Hill the following day. The bush tucker tour at Baton Hill is well worth it.
Travelling south to north seemed the best way. North to south would still be a good trip but it would be a little more difficult on the dunes and fuel consumption a bit higher.
I thank everyone for being on time when necessary and being considerate of fellow adventurers. We had a great group and a great time.
It was fantastic having Ken along to share his wealth of knowledge of the area. He was a great travel companion with lots of stories to tell.
Conclusion – highly recommended trip